August 10th, 2009
Our first full day in Riomaggiore Peter and I had planned on renting kayaks and going exploring but sadly the waters were too rough for people to even lay out near the water. The effect of rough water in Cinque Terre is similar to the effect of rainy days in a city… In a city when in rains tourists crowd into museums. In Cinque Terre when the water is rough, the tourists head for the hiking trails.
Peter came to Cinque Terre 2 years ago with his entire family. When we decided to return here there was one thing Peter insisted we must do… We must hike to all the villages.
Now I love doing the “must-do”s- I made a point of doing a few of ‘Frommer’s Favorites’ for every city I visited on my RTW trip. This was no different- Alright, let’s do it.
7.5 miles of trails with total 3,250 feet of total elevation gain and loss. Woohoo!
We wake up mid morning, put on our sneakers, pack the day-pack with water bottles and a camera, and head for the trail. We stop at the train station deli for breakfast though Peter thought we could hike to the first village for that– no, no, I don’t hike without food.
11AM we buy our trail pass and are on our way. We’ll take the blue trail on the map below.


The first hike is easy-peesy. It’s got a sidewalk for goodness sake. At one point we walk through a tunnel where a guy is playing the accordion for change. I could do this all day.
It takes us about 20 minutes to get from Riomaggiore to Manarola.
Manarola is similar to Riomaggiore except a little bit bigger and maybe not as steep.
We wander through the city for a bit and Peter lets me stop in some stores in search of mementos. Peter probably saved me some cash on this trip since though he was sweet and let me go in wherever I wanted, he never looked super excited about it so I usually hurried out empty handed.


Peter and I are fast walkers, I mean we were passing people left and right (in as polite a fashion as we could manage, though some people (like those taking up the entire trail while talking on their cell phones (at least they weren’t speaking English!)Â made it quite difficult).

The hike from Manarola to Corniglia was another easy one… Only the closer we got the further up I noticed the city was… How are we going to get up there?! Oh…  The stairs.

Peter, of course, decides he is going to run up the stairs, an activity he and his siblings did when they did the hike previously. He asks if I would like to join him. (This is the Friday after the Sunday of his IronMan.)
BAHAHA.


I walk up taking my time. When I arrive at the top Peter is still catching his breath.

This city seems bigger than the other cities and we wander through the maze of hallways between buildings.





Hiking away Peter tells me that this is where all the fun begins… Or maybe he didn’t say it just like that but hiking up the first of many carved in stairs I know that’s what I was thinking.

The trail from Corniglia to Vernazza is the longest of what we’ve hiked so far and though there are timing estimates on how long it should take you to get from one city to the next Peter and I are blowing these out of the water. For the most part I lead the way, but merely because if Peter were to go first he might leave me behind in the dust. It’s pretty hot outside and luckily we have two water bottles that Peter has refilled out of the water fountains in each city.
Despite the increasing difficulty of the hike we are still in good spirits (I should say “I am” because it would take more than a couple of hills to deter Peter’s mood) when we make it to Vernazza in about an hour.

We take 5 for a gelato break. When I ask Peter if he would like his own cup he promptly says ‘yes’ followed by a hesitant ”I mean if you really want to we can share” in courtesy of my post prior to leaving for Europe I assume. But, you know, we earned it, so we each get our own.

I had Nutella and Stracciatella (kind of like chocolate chip ice cream) and Peter had Fior de Latte (Flower of Milk) and Lampone (Raspberry). Â (Does this make you question his manhood?)
We stop for a minute to watch the huge waves break over the cement breakers where all the tourists are trying to lay out then decide we best be moving on.  This next hike is the hardest of them all.


It starts off going straight up hill and my attitude changes from happy-go-lucky hiker to are-we-there-yet hiker. Up a hill, around a corner, Oh Look More Make Shift Stairs, up the stairs, turn the corner, Oh Look More Make Shift Stairs. As much as I try to cover my growing unhappiness with the uphill hike it’s all but obvious in my silence that I am wondering “Which turn will be the last?”…
To make matters worse my ears are popping, an issue I’ve had during physical activity (I hate that phrase) since my sophomore year in high school. My iPod is the only reason I can run because it somewhat blocks it out. (I will be deaf by the time I’m 30.)
So I’m climbing these hills and have to keep stopping to turn my head over to pop my ears. Plus when this is going on my nose runs (I have no idea how this these things are associated but they are- small nasal passages?) so I’m sniffling, hiking, ear popping. It’s terribly frustrating and I’m sure annoying for those around me (which makes it even more frustrating for me even if they don’t say it bothers them because I know it has to!).
My brother Jimmy is the only other person I know who has this problem… If you happen to have a remedy please email me!

At some points we can see Monterossa in the distance. It looks very small. I tend to think of this as a bad sign.

Along the way we pass small homes built into the sides of the mountains. How did they decide to move there? How do they get supplies? Why would you want to live there? Do they have electricity? Water? I bet it’s hard for their kids to play sports outside. (That last thought was Peter’s, could you tell?)

Hike hike hike. Up stairs, down stairs, pass people, get passed (only twice- but by the same 2 guys). Finally we see we’re closing in on Monterossa… It’s just down the hill… Just down past the vineyards…
I AM SO GLAD WE STARTED IN RIOMAGGIORE.
Down the stairs. Down down down. 25 minutes of going down stairs. Awkwardly spaced stairs.
Somehow my pictures from this part of the trip went missing or maybe I forgot to take them because I was merrily running down the stairs. It’s almost over! It’s almost over!
The “2 hour” hike took us about an hour or something around those lines.
First, we must get in the water. We drop our stuff on the shoulder-to-shoulder crowded beach and make a run for the water. The waves are massive! Staying in until the heat from the hike left out bodies we head back to the beach, find a family of 4 has taken up all the space surrounding our pile of stuff, grab our bag and pick a nice place on the cement walkway to let the sun dry us off (of course we didn’t pack towels).
Once dry enough, we need to have a beer… And it would probably be a good idea to get something to eat as well.
We walk around town looking for a place to eat. The biggest problem with these towns is that they are so small that nothing is not touristy. We walk to the end of the line (literally the end of the town) looking for somewhere we find acceptable, find nothing that actually qualifies and give up settling on the closest pizza place in our immediate sight.

Our mid afternoon meal was huge and we downed the entire basket.
You know you’re in a tourist place when the menu comes in 7 languages:

After eating, we walk around the city, Peter points out to me where he and his family stayed, I check the small grocery store to see if A) they sell frozen pizza (They do) and B) What style it is (Napoleon), we run out of places to wander and debate finding a happy hour in Monterrosso. Alas, we decide we should jump on the train back to Riomaggiore because it’s better to be tired near your bed than several cities over.

Back in Riomaggiore, we stop at the train station deli for another couple of beers for the walk home (you can walk along the ridge line from the train station into the city).
We drink our beer and find a seat up on a rock to watch the waves for awhile. It’s been a tiring day but all in all I’m glad Peter made me do it.

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